Seasons
Berlin in winter: what Berliners do when it gets cold and grey
The Berlin winter has a bad reputation: grey, wet, dark early. All true, and yet it is a good time for the city. Queues are shorter, pubs fuller, and Berlin shows itself as it really is. Here is what goes on in winter and where Berliners go when they need to get out but do not want to freeze.
01 December: Christmas markets and New Year's Eve
From late November the Christmas markets open, from the big ones at the Rotes Rathaus to the small ones that only run for one weekend. Which ones are worth it and when they open is in Berlin Christmas markets. Some markets have ice rinks, for example on the Dorfaue in Zehlendorf. And at the end of the year comes the big night: New Year's Eve in Berlin, with the party at the Brandenburg Gate and the hills from which you see the whole city's fireworks.
The classic
Sleeping in on New Year's Day
The city only comes round in the afternoon.
Kieznah tip
The quietest morning of the year
On the morning of 1 January, walk around the Schlachtensee or through your empty neighborhood. Berlin is yours.
02 January: the quietest time
After the holidays things go quiet. For visitors that is an advantage: museums that are packed in summer are almost yours alone now. Our advice for grey days: the small museums instead of Museum Island. The Brücke Museum by the Grunewald, the permanent exhibition at the Jewish Museum, which is always free, or on the first Sunday of the month the KINDL in Neukölln, which then charges no admission. More in Sunday in Berlin.
03 February: the Berlinale
In February Berlin becomes a film city. The 77th Berlinale runs from 10 to 21 February 2027, and for the first time there are dedicated audience days on 20 and 21 February. Unlike many big festivals, anyone can buy tickets here. When sales start is announced on the Berlinale website, and it pays to be quick.
04 Staying warm: where to go when it is miserable outside
- Market halls: in the Marheineke market hall in the Bergmannkiez you eat and shop under one roof.
- A bowl of noodles on Kantstraße: Chinese and Taiwanese kitchens line up one after another, more in Where Berliners actually eat.
- A historic bath: the Stadtbad Neukölln from 1914, with columns and a dome like a Roman bath, has a sauna alongside its pools. Check opening times with the Berliner Bäder-Betriebe first, as it closes for works from time to time.
- A flea market with a roof: at Rathaus Schöneberg the stalls are covered, so browsing works in the rain too.
05 An important note about ice
When the lakes freeze, many people are drawn onto the ice. Don't: in Berlin, ice on lakes, rivers and canals is never officially released for use, and police and fire services warn every winter because thin ice often looks safe. For skating there are artificial rinks, for example at Christmas markets. On clear frosty days, a walk along the shore is the best part anyway.
06 Little winter tips from Berliners
- Between December and January it gets dark early. Plan outdoor things for the morning and midday, museums and food for the late afternoon.
- Between Christmas and New Year many Berliners are away and the city is unusually empty. A good time for sights without the crowds.
- Sturdy shoes over smart ones: cobblestones and slush do not go well with thin soles.